The Commoner

Tonight I ate at one of my favorites. The most unassuming restaurant and since its transformation from the dingy little cafe that held its position previously, its become somewhat of a landmark in Fitzroy. The Commoner has received a string of write ups last year, everything from Epicure in the Age to the inflight magazine for Qantas, to Gourmet Traveler, but its really only now, beginning to mature as an establishment and I am able to make that comment as I've been eating there since the start. To experience Melbourne, is to eat at the Commoner. 

So what food does The Commoner create? Its part Spanish, part Mediterranean, part Middle Eastern and part European. The food is best shared although if one were greedy they could keep any of the entrees or mains to themselves. Tonight, I had the Sardine Skewer with Agro Dulce, the Mount Zero Olives (always a favorite), the House Bread with Toasted Sesame & Olive Oil and the Boccerones  (Sicilian White Anchovies with Sweet Pepper, Aioli & Parsley). Shared between 3 it was a crisp, light start to a night of indulgence.  The house bread appears to be a Turkish Pide covered with sea salt and spice and is light and fluffy. I stress the light and fluffy and as a result a 2nd serve was needed. The sardine skewers were fresh and delicate and the Agro Dulce sauce mixing in some small fruit, probably raisins smoothed the whole dish off perfectly. Agrodolce is a traditional sweet and sour sauce, Italian in origin although thought to have been brought to sicily by the Arabs.  The wine was sublime. A bottle of the Teusner "Avatar" Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre from the Barossa valley in SA complimented everything well. Lets face it, South Australia is good for something. But enough with the entrees.

Just to break things up a little bit, we had an intermediate course, which was the special of the day, and special it was for all the right reasons. It was an oven baked Poisson, charred to perfection in its own juices with a cracked wheat, preserved lemon, grape & sumac salad on the side, which was, again, amazing. The sweetness from the grapes and persevered lemon complimented the sweet tender meat of the poisson and helped to balance the tartness of the blackened skin. It was also an interactive dish that required the not so skillful carving techniques of my guest, although I suspect it would have been easier to tear pieces off as the finger bowl provided indicated a need to get down and dirty with it. A special it might have been but this one needs to stay on the menu me thinks. 

Main course consisted of the Pan Roasted Snapper, Potatoes, bacon, Spring Bay mussels in Parsley, Garlic & Fino. The fish was perfectly cooked, still moist and the mussels in garlic and fino reminded my of a much more subtle version of the escabeche that’s served at The European, and this is not a bad thing! We also shared a slice of pan-fried semolina Gnocchi topped with shredded beetroot on a base of goats curd. To experience the semolina gnocchi is to abandon all you think you know about Italian cuisine. Its as soft as a soufflé with a silken texture tastier then any pasta.

By this time the Teusner "Avatar" had been finished and we tried a glass of the Pennyweight Shiraz, from Beechworth, Vic. I was Introduced to Pennyweight at the Commoner about 18mths ago in the form of the Pinot Noir and have been a huge fan of this winery ever since. The Pinot Noir was one of the best I have ever had, and the Shiraz was not a disappointment either being smoother then one might expect from a Shiraz. It lacked the bold peppery note thats come to be the trademark of this varietal and instead, had a deep complex blackberry flavor with an ever so slight finish of old leather (or cork). But what would a night out at The Commoner be without a glass of what they so aptly call "Pudding Wine" and a desert. Desert at The Commoner is probably better described as an event and the Beignet has been written about without any other aspect of the menu even being mentioned. Beignet for the uninitiated are basically French donuts. Round balls of aerated dough quickly deep-fried and covered in vanilla sugar. They’re easy to eat so don't be afraid to order a few per person.

We decided to share the “Killer Bees” – Beignet in Vanilla Sugar with Milk & Honey and the Chocolate, Flaming Bombe Alaska washed down with a glass of Disnoko Late Harvest Furmint from Hungary, dark and syrupy just as a Tokay should be. The Bombe Alaska was presented with the usual theatre that accompanies any flaming dish with the lick of blue alcohol flames drawing the attention of the other diners and the use of chocolate Ice Cream instead of the standard vanilla worked in well the rest of the menu. The accompanying sauces with the Beignet are light, just like the Beignet themselves with the whipped honey lose and flowing as is the barely set milk/cream.

Jo and her Team have done an outstanding job. The service is always attentive and quick and the staff are well trained in the composition of the menu and the wine list. The interior of The Commoner feels like home and the mod for dining is one of relaxed, casual eating. The demographic present on Saturday included a table of a large group of friends, romantic couples and smaller groups obviously enjoying the ambiance and each other’s company.  The Commoner always keeps you guessing with the constant stream of tastes, textures, smells and regions. Its Haute Cuisine with a Fitzroy edge. Think Cordon Bleu meets farm house cooking, Enjoy.